Tubular vs Side-Seam T-Shirts: What the Difference Really Means
By The Velocity Wear Team
Side-seamed t-shirts hold their shape wash after wash, drape more naturally against the body and are a reliable quality signal in retail and premium merch contexts; tubular t-shirts are knitted as a single seamless tube and cost less to manufacture, but the seam-free construction makes them prone to twisting after repeated washing — a visible flaw that undermines brand perception.
The distinction between tubular and side-seamed construction is one of the most consistently misunderstood variables in the custom t-shirt buying process. Many buyers focus entirely on fabric weight and print method without realising that the construction method can affect how the finished garment looks on the body after its first wash.
How Tubular T-Shirts Are Made
Tubular construction means the fabric is knitted in a circular cylinder — a continuous tube — rather than as flat panels that are later sewn together. The resulting fabric has no side seams at all. The garment is cut from this tube and hemmed at the neckline, sleeves and bottom.
The absence of side seams is an advantage in one specific context: tubular tees are cheaper and faster to produce because they require fewer sewing operations. They are also slightly more durable in one respect — there are no side seams to split or pucker over time.
The significant disadvantage of tubular construction is torque, or twist. Because the fabric is knitted in a spiral, the front and back panels of a tubular tee are not perfectly aligned on a vertical axis. After the first few washes, the side panels of the tee rotate slightly, causing the side "seams" (which are just the edge of the tube, not real seams) to drift toward the front of the body. This is visually obvious and is considered a quality failure in any premium or retail context.
How Side-Seamed T-Shirts Are Made
Side-seamed construction (also called cut-and-sewn) uses flat-knit fabric panels that are cut to pattern shapes and then assembled. The front and back body panels are sewn together at the sides, and the sleeve panels are sewn in separately at the armhole. Each seam is a deliberate structural element.
Side seams allow the garment to be shaped more precisely. A curved side seam creates a subtle taper at the waist that follows body contours; a straight side seam produces a boxy, boxier profile. This control over silhouette is impossible with tubular construction, where the tube diameter determines the entire body width.
Side seams also provide a natural breaking point in the fabric that prevents the torque-driven twisting seen in tubular tees. The seam acts as a structural anchor, keeping front and back panels correctly aligned through hundreds of washes.
What This Means for Decoration
- Tubular tees: the twist risk means that a centred chest print can appear off-centre after a few washes — a significant concern for print-focused brand merchandise.
- Side-seamed tees: the print placement remains where you put it, wash after wash, because the fabric does not rotate.
- Both: screen printing, DTF and embroidery all produce equivalent quality results on the print surface itself — the construction affects longevity of placement, not print quality.
- For embroidered left-chest logos: side-seamed construction ensures the logo stays at the left chest rather than drifting toward the centre after washing.
Which Should You Choose?
- Choose side-seamed for any retail product, merch drop, or uniform programme where the garment will be worn and washed repeatedly.
- Choose side-seamed when print placement accuracy after washing matters — any centred or precisely positioned decoration requires a non-twisting construction.
- Choose tubular only for single-use event shirts, promotional giveaways, or high-volume items where cost is the primary driver and repeat wear is not expected.
- Default to side-seamed if you are uncertain — the modest additional cost is almost always justified by the quality outcome.
“"A twist in the seam after the first wash tells the customer something about how much care went into the garment. Side seams are not a luxury feature — they are the minimum standard for anything meant to be worn repeatedly."”
Velocity Wear produces custom t-shirts in side-seamed construction as standard, from a minimum of 20 pieces, with screen printing, DTF, embroidery and 3D puff all available. Use the free Design Studio to place your artwork precisely, check pricing with the instant calculator and unlock bulk discounts up to 40% as your volume increases. Tracked delivery to the UK, USA, Europe and worldwide.